Back to the homepage
Dispatches

The ice road that appears every winter

Each January a highway forms on a frozen river. By April it is gone again, and the towns along it plan their whole year around those few months.

Leah Spence · Dispatches & Outdoors
Start reading ↓
Desk
Dispatches
Format
Feature
Reading time
12 min
Published
Oct 13, 2026

The road does not exist in the summer. You can stand on the bank in July and watch the river slide past, wide and brown and in no hurry, and there is nothing to suggest that in six months a fuel truck will drive across the exact spot where a heron is now standing.

By January, though, the ice is thick enough, and a small crew goes out with augers and measuring sticks. They drill, they measure, they drill again. When the numbers are right, the plough follows, and a highway appears where the water used to be.

Built by the cold

Nobody here calls it an engineering project, but it is one. The crew floods the surface to thicken it, marks the edges with spruce boughs and posts the speed limit on a hand-painted sign. Drive too fast and the weight of the truck pushes a wave through the water underneath.

The road shortens a day-long detour to under an hour. For the two towns at either end, that changes everything from the price of groceries to who can visit family on a weeknight.

The river was here first. We are just borrowing it for a few months.

A member of the ice crew

A season on a timer

Everyone knows the road is temporary, and that knowledge shapes the whole winter. Deliveries are stacked into the cold months. Weddings get scheduled for February. Hockey teams that cannot reach each other in summer play a full season on the ice.

Spring arrives as a series of warnings. The weight limit drops, then drops again. One morning the crew drives out, looks at the colour of the surface, and closes the gate.

What the thaw takes

Winters are getting shorter here, and the road opens later than it used to. People talk about it the way they talk about the weather: practically, without drama, with a list of backup plans that keeps getting longer.

Tip

If you go

Check the local road report before you set out, keep to the marked lanes, and never stop in a group on the ice. The crew posts daily updates at the gate.

On the last day of the season, someone always drives across slowly, one more time, just to say they did. Then the gate closes, the boughs come up, and the river goes back to being a river.

Written by

Leah Spence

Covers roads, weather and the small towns that live by both.

More from Leah
“The river was here first. We are just borrowing it for a few months.”

— A member of the ice crew

Up next · Food The great bagel détente
The Thursday letter · free

join the club.

The week’s best posts and one great photo, every Thursday morning. Unsubscribe whenever, no hard feelings.