The great bagel détente
Two bakeries, one street, seventy years of argument over wood-fired dough. A truce, of sorts, has finally been reached.
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The throat singers taking an old game to new stages
It started as a contest between friends to see who would laugh first. Two cousins are now taking it from the community hall to festival stages.
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Inside a late-night jazz revival
Basement clubs, borrowed pianos and a scene that plays until the last bus is long gone.
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A coastal kitchen built on seaweed
The seaweed locals snack on like chips is having a fine-dining moment. One small kitchen is leading the way.